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Since this gets asked occasionally I thought I would help identify the differences in the slides. These are the slides I have and may not be the same manufactured 308 that you may have. Since these loaders were made in 3006 and lend leased to the Israelis at a later time the US never made any 308 slides that I know of. The Israelis moved to standardized on 308 Nato and then converted some of the 1918 loaders before developing the 308 Izzy metallic link. I have not seen an Israeli made/modified slide or loader, maybe someone here has one to post a picture as I'm curious if they came up with the forward cartridge guide adapter.

As 308 is a popular cartridge there lies the need for getting these loaders to work belting 308 and as such a few small manufactures filled that need for adapters. I'm sure there are many slight variations on the 308 slides that have been made depending on who made them. Almost non have had makers marks that I've seen.
The early made 308 were made in steel and dried up and then aluminum became the makers material of choice because its cheaper faster- but in my opinion not better. FYI If you have the opportunity to buy it in person, I recommend you check the screw threads as I've seen some made with the threads buggered up pretty bad and you don't want one or two good threads.
There are two types of 308 slide designs. There is the rear cartridge drop slide (which is a drop in replacement). Then there is the forward cartridge drop slide ( which requires a spacer block that fits under the cartridge guide chute), the spacer or adapter moves the cartridge guide position forward a little less than a half inch.
Each loader has its own personality that I've seen. Many need tuning just to get them to work, not including a proper set up. And some run really well in the difficult 308 set up. So how your loader runs what is a trial and error or indicative it just needs more tuning. As frustrating as these loaders can be to learn - just don't give up. Now for some comparison pictures of slides.

Set of Slides 1.jpg Set of Slides 2.jpg Set of Slides 3.jpg Set of Slides 4.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Set of Slides 5.jpg Set of Slides 7.jpg Set of Slides 9.jpg

Here I stack the rear drop and the forward drop slide to get an idea of design and how one might think about modifications.
 

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I have many more pictures that show how the forward drop slide shown here will not work without the spacer block but its not really necessary. In essence, the rear of the square profile that faces the carrier, upon travel will jamb up against the next presenting round and gets locked up. This area can be recontoured to avoid that jamming I have yet to do that. It is apparent that on the 3006 slide they rounded it off, and on the rear drop slide they angle relieved that area.

Additionally worthy to mention that if you loose your irreplaceable adapter, then you can reprofile the front edge which catches the rim on the first stage. Maybe go an 1/8" at a time and check for good function.

Set of Slides 8.jpg Set of Slides 6a.jpg
 

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So to conclude for now we need to show a few pictures of what the forward slide spacer/ adapter looks like.

Here are the two I have, one made by Ohio Ord. and one by Len's Gun Shop. The one Len made didn't like my magazine casting and required some quality time with the Dremel and files but now fits like a glove. Len's designs went the extra mile if you notice the spacer includes a guide with alignment rails all the way down to the lowest point possible. Kudo's to Len.
Customarily you will here that the rear drop slide, folks insert an 8mm or 3006 round in the front of the magazine to keep the rounds from moving up there causing issues as shown but I only had a 762-39 near for representation.
Thanks hope this helps.

Set of Slides 11.jpg Set of Slides 12.jpg Set of Slides 10.jpg
 

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I thought I would expand on this thread covering five topics to the 1918 belt filing machine.



First is what I call the over center jamb. Then modifying or tuning your slide and what to do if you loose your forward slide adapter. And last the stability or tilt of your tabletop.
Since these topics all related to the slides, I found it most fitting to continue here. Hope this helps with the many troubleshooting questions that arise with optional solutions.

Since I have established there are two different types of 308 slides, the forward drop and the rear drop I’d like to confer that the slide for some of the forward drop slides may have a problem that you may need to address to prevent excessive jambs.
I call this jamb the over center. It can occur when loading 3006 as well, usually related to another reason of malfunction and you stop to fix a problem and the carrier moves.

When loading 308 with the rear drop slide it happens because the round is shorter and has a steeper profile, the round above jumps forward in to the large empty space. The solution to that problem is to fill the empty space, usually stick a round in front will handle it most of the time.

Yes the lean or sturdiness of your table top will make it worst. Especially out in the field. Depending on who made the slide it may have an area of improvement you can modify I’ll show below.
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Here is my 308 aluminum slide that was made for Sarco sometime back. Showing the back side face of the first stage tang of the slide, looking down into the magazine. The first stage tang has two jobs, on the forward cycle it grabs the edge of the rim moving it forward in alignment with the carrier and that is on the front of the face. On the recoperative return cycle, the back side makes contact with the key of the carrier to return it withdrawn and cock the cam and tension spring.
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PIC_0332.jpg



Then there is the 308 forward drop slide. This slide was designed to be used with an adapter that fits on top of the magazine which posistions the cartridge chute forward about a 1/2 in inch. That slide has a different profile which you can see above. The example I have was made for Len’s and it is steel. A great resource for parts to these loaders. I know Ohio Ordinance also made this similar 308 conversion but do not have an example of their slide.

However, there is one area of the forward drop slide that may need modification.

Here shown looking into the magazine you see the sharpe corner of the rear of the first stage tang. Here is the problem. This sharp corner grabs the rim of the round pulling it backwards. The nose of the round gets partly pulled to the left prematurely and jambs. And then you get the “over center” jamb from the round above it sliding forward and nose diving, also blocking the carrier.
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The fix for the problem is easy. Carefully grind the corner off like the factory 3006 or the Sarco Aluminum slide. I would also cut back the whole front face of the first stage tang too. I’d cut it back 3/16 for a start and go more if it keeps happening. But should not grind it back as far as the 3006 as it has about an 1/8 more relieved than needed anyway. If you do mod the rear of the tang and then cut back the front face of the tang you have an almost workable version of the 308 rear drop slide. You may have to reshape the front part of the slide which holds the shoulder of the round to keep the correct angle straight forward. But there you go, now you have a steel 308 slide that should work without the forward drop adapter. Now that is a good option if say you loose it.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
98288

( Now is a good time to mention that it is best to store the loader with least amount of tension on the torsion cam spring) That is a part that is very hard to find a replacement for.



Early on getting to know your loader, I can tell you that you should ideally start working on 3006 or 8mm because of the easier dynamics and less resistant forces of the necks inserting into the pockets and walking your belt away too far out of needle reach. It helped me immensely. I found the differences and condition of belts to be a big influence with the success of this loader. I found my loader was over inserting 3006 by about a 1/8 of an inch or more and it also caused alot of forward walk away on my belt. So I opted to shave the face of the second stage of my slide and that solved most of my issues I was having as long as the belt was not new and pre-streached out. I’ve wondered if my slide was made specificly for shorter 8mm. Maybe, I dont know? I’ve have always herd that the 3006 slide will load 8mm just fine so I cant see the purpose to invent something that already works. Never worked 8mm myself and never will. But full disclosure yes my 3006 slide is modified if it does not match yours which I forgot to mention in my earlier post as is my Sarco slide also shaved back.
 

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Nicely done...!! This detailed description is a 'must read' for those who want to load cloth belts with different cartridges. I've loaded 30/06 and 8MM with the original 30/06 pusher many times. And then .308,7.65 Arg and 7MM with the .308 pusher. These 5-cartridges represent the majority of standard military ammo used in the 1917/1919 type guns. And for those who want to shoot the 7.62x54 and 7.62x39 Russian ammo,barrelexchange (Troy) has developed the necessary parts to make it a working modification.
 

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( Now is a good time to mention that it is best to store the loader with least amount of tension on the torsion cam spring) That is a part that is very hard to find a replacement for.
Early on getting to know your loader, I can tell you that you should ideally start working on 3006 or 8mm because of the easier dynamics and less resistant forces of the necks inserting into the pockets and walking your belt away too far out of needle reach. It helped me immensely. I found the differences and condition of belts to be a big influence with the success of this loader. I found my loader was over inserting 3006 by about a 1/8 of an inch or more and it also caused alot of forward walk away on my belt. So I opted to shave the face of the second stage of my slide and that solved most of my issues I was having as long as the belt was not new and pre-streached out. I’ve wondered if my slide was made specificly for shorter 8mm. Maybe, I dont know? I’ve have always herd that the 3006 slide will load 8mm just fine so I cant see the purpose to invent something that already works. Never worked 8mm myself and never will. But full disclosure yes my 3006 slide is modified if it does not match yours which I forgot to mention in my earlier post as is my Sarco slide also shaved back.
Thank you for documenting the various slide types. I am now able to identify my .308 slide as a Sarco rear drop version.
 
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