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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
A friend is in the middle of his first build and has hit a glitch. He obtained a pile of parts and RHS plate, maybe it was ORF, I'm not sure, and launched into his semi-build. All went pretty well, including the riveting until he tried an initial assembly.

In an unpleasant surprise he discovered that this 80% plate might actually have only been 70%. All of the required machining seems done except for the 2.5 inch long horizontal slot that captures one of the two protrusions that stick out from the sides of the trigger box. Uh-oh!

Initial thoughts were - destroy the rivets, pull the plate and add the slot and start again (painful even to contemplate), painstakingly try to manufacture the slot while its assembled into a box (another nightmare of trial and error fitting and filing) or grind off the right side trigger box protrusion.

He continues to mull these options over. These protrusions seem to help hold the trigger box in place and possible react some trigger pull or bolt imparted loads. Either way, I noticed that the spring loaded trigger box push pin on the right side seems to probably take most of the loads anyhow, if any are encountered. I also notice that the lower edge of the RHS plate thickened semi region creates a shelf right above the RHS of the trigger box, capturing it.

So, may be this guy can just cut off the trigger box right side protrusion and the above remaining features will allow things to work ok.

My friend is a novice 1919 person and, as you can tell, I've never tackled one. I still hope to shoot this one soon.

Can anyone guide him out of this trauma? I think he was tearing up for a second.
Regards,
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
PKw Tiger VI,

Thanks for the advice. My buddy will be overjoyed. Easy breezy. That's a lot better than blind grinding for two days. Hopefully I'll get to try it out when he gets it squared away.

Thank you,
a4fun
 

· Mouse Machine Works
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Initial thoughts were - destroy the rivets, pull the plate and add the slot and start again (painful even to contemplate),

Why??
The rivets are the cheapest part of this equation, less than 20.00 delivered.
Drill the rivets out and have the plate properly cut and then put it back together. Problem solved.
If you have to modify one of the internal parts to make it work what happens when you try to sell it? Or when you have to replace that part you have to modify another one.

Do it right and be done with it, it's way easier in the long run.
Bring it to the build party and get someone to help you.
 

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My 1919 was built this way without the slot and has fired thousands of rounds with out a problem. The trigger pivot pin in combination with the raised area on the rsp is more than enough to hold the trigger housing in place.
 

· Mouse Machine Works
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My 1919 was built this way without the slot and has fired thousands of rounds with out a problem. The trigger pivot pin in combination with the raised area on the rsp is more than enough to hold the trigger housing in place.
I didn't say it wouldn't work, but it's still not right. Why take shortcuts with your builds when it isn't necessary?
 

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I would take It apart and build It right. for future builders I always clamp up the gun and completely assemble It and check for function before I rivet. I know Its too late for that and I probably sound like a jerk for saying so but hey......someone had to say It.:)
 

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RHS-- Is it a Lee tool sideplate??

Lee tool made them that way in the early days of semi-1919 building-- Their trigger and sear is a lot like the Karma unit !
 

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Mine is the same way. I ground the nub off of the lock frame. At the time I could not make the slot. It has mucho rounds through it. Even some bad old Yugo blow ups with no issue. The button holds it in without issue. I would not take is apart again. Do it on the next one. Buy them up build them... You'll be sorry in 5 years if you did not.
 

· PhD in Over-Engineering
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When I got into this Browning stuff about 4 years ago, I remember that there was a group buy on 80% RSPs. I think it was one of 7.52x51's, or maybe at weaponeer. Since the mfg of the plate was not being listed, the question came up. It was with an almost humorous air that someone pointed out the slot for the lock frame tab was indeed present. The point was, only ORF and T&S Mfg were known for cutting that slot back then. Lee and other (some more infamous) mfgs left it off. That was just normal, as some stories above have indicated.

Yes, if it were mine, I would have pulled it apart and added the slot. But I am an authenticity nut. For your friend, he will never notice the missing tab and slot.
 

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One thing to consider before pulling it all apart again.......
how many times can you rivet the bottom plate before you
chance cracking it? The bottom plates are getting hard to
come by, I think it's time to leave well enough alone, as stated
by others the gun will function which is what is important.
 

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I got a 80% RSP from a member here early this year that was missing the slot you all mention. I marked it with dimensions from another plate and cut it with a dremel tool and an abrasive wheel. It took some time and patience, but I got it right and then did the build. Its a personal thing judging by the posts here, but I didn't want to screw up a build IMHO.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I want to thank everyone for all of your opinions and information. They've been a great help and really increased my understanding. I'll let my buddy know what's up and he can decide which way to go.

I think I can see both points of view on the best way to go.

It's great to have a resource available with people who understand all of the ins and outs of 1919s.
Thanks Again,
a4fun
 
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