Wanted maxim m-1910 side plate,
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Protocol for dummy 1910 is both side plates need to be double the thickness of a standard plate along with destruction of certain parts. Specs for the dummy plates that I have in my shop are 1/4" thick where it is not milled. Milling to standard plate thickness at following places:
Rear of plate to accommodate assembly of the rear section of the recoil plates with the crank assembly on right and the fusee link on the left rear section of the recoil plate. Both coil plates are cut about in half to fit into the cutouts in the dummy side plates.
Front inside of plate milled out to fit the extension of the trunnion where the barrel breech end and barrel extension are assembled.
Lock extractor has the top ears ground off and lockface welded up.
Barrel is welded at breech and to the trunnion at the joint of trunnion and barrel extension.
If you are planning on making a dummy from a 1910 kit, please do not destroy a set of recoil plates, barrel and a lock. These vintage, original parts are very valuable, are irreplaceable and are needed by the shooting community.
Please consider just buying one of the IMA dummy 1910s that show up for sale now and then, and you will also save money over building one, given the current value of 1910 kits and parts.
FWIW
Bob Naess
Rear of plate to accommodate assembly of the rear section of the recoil plates with the crank assembly on right and the fusee link on the left rear section of the recoil plate. Both coil plates are cut about in half to fit into the cutouts in the dummy side plates.
Front inside of plate milled out to fit the extension of the trunnion where the barrel breech end and barrel extension are assembled.
Lock extractor has the top ears ground off and lockface welded up.
Barrel is welded at breech and to the trunnion at the joint of trunnion and barrel extension.
If you are planning on making a dummy from a 1910 kit, please do not destroy a set of recoil plates, barrel and a lock. These vintage, original parts are very valuable, are irreplaceable and are needed by the shooting community.
Please consider just buying one of the IMA dummy 1910s that show up for sale now and then, and you will also save money over building one, given the current value of 1910 kits and parts.
FWIW
Bob Naess
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597 Posts
dummy gun
Yes Bob I truly under stand I would not destroy any good parts,, I've picked up parts over the years form builders , cut lock, recoil plates ,ect,, just need some dummy plates to make it look good,, Thanks Bob if interested in that carriage ''pm'' me ,
Yes Bob I truly under stand I would not destroy any good parts,, I've picked up parts over the years form builders , cut lock, recoil plates ,ect,, just need some dummy plates to make it look good,, Thanks Bob if interested in that carriage ''pm'' me ,
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198 Posts
Can they be modified to fit a 1910?
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597 Posts
mg-08
Yes they can be modified ,, But you need to have the cut Russian set to complete the modification so you can install your Russian lock, you have to modifie where the feed block inserts on the recoil plate left side,, takes a bout a hour, or so,, there are articles hear on the forum about it,, MG-08s recoil plates are more rare them M-1910s would not recommend modifying. put WTB on the board,,'''Imblitz'' may have a set,
Yes they can be modified ,, But you need to have the cut Russian set to complete the modification so you can install your Russian lock, you have to modifie where the feed block inserts on the recoil plate left side,, takes a bout a hour, or so,, there are articles hear on the forum about it,, MG-08s recoil plates are more rare them M-1910s would not recommend modifying. put WTB on the board,,'''Imblitz'' may have a set,
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3,116 Posts
Thanks, Yes I do have German sets for sale. Yes you can modify German Recoil plates to work in a 1910. email me at [email protected] for more info.
>Can they be modified to fit a 1910?<
The 08 lock spigot mount to the crank axle is an interrupted thread pattern and it can be removed and a Vickers pattern bayonet type lock spigot part installed allowing the 1910 lock to fit and function in th
e 08 recoil plates. This is almost an identical swap although a bit of shimming is advised. The Vickers lock spigot uses the same headspace type nut as the 1910. The 1910 feedblock drive pawl will need to be fitted to the left side 08 recoil plate drive.
MG08 recoil plate assemblies are fairly common since they are common to both the 0& and the 0&/15, and many thousands of 08s and 08/15s have been imported into the US since WWI but the 1910 assemblies ae getting more and more scarce. The 1910 assemblies will disappear long before the 08s. FWIW
The 08 lock spigot mount to the crank axle is an interrupted thread pattern and it can be removed and a Vickers pattern bayonet type lock spigot part installed allowing the 1910 lock to fit and function in th
e 08 recoil plates. This is almost an identical swap although a bit of shimming is advised. The Vickers lock spigot uses the same headspace type nut as the 1910. The 1910 feedblock drive pawl will need to be fitted to the left side 08 recoil plate drive.
MG08 recoil plate assemblies are fairly common since they are common to both the 0& and the 0&/15, and many thousands of 08s and 08/15s have been imported into the US since WWI but the 1910 assemblies ae getting more and more scarce. The 1910 assemblies will disappear long before the 08s. FWIW
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3,116 Posts
I also remove the left Lock spring from the inside of the left recoil plate. I figure its already modified for the 1910 feedblock arm, no need for the spring and the Russian lock does not use it.
I actually use all German Recoil plates in my 7.62 conversions in my Maxims. Why use up a good set of Russian recoil plates that are a lot easier to sell!
I actually use all German Recoil plates in my 7.62 conversions in my Maxims. Why use up a good set of Russian recoil plates that are a lot easier to sell!
1910 maxim parts interchangeability
I'm glad I stopped to read this thread! Since Matt and bob are both contributing, where better to ask if there are any feed blocks that would interchange in a 1910? Any booster substitutions? I have been on and off hunting a feed block and booster for my snow cap kit with zero luck, I'm not opposed to using anything that will work! Sorry to hijack the thread, I just saw a good opportunity to ask some questions... Thanks, jon
I'm glad I stopped to read this thread! Since Matt and bob are both contributing, where better to ask if there are any feed blocks that would interchange in a 1910? Any booster substitutions? I have been on and off hunting a feed block and booster for my snow cap kit with zero luck, I'm not opposed to using anything that will work! Sorry to hijack the thread, I just saw a good opportunity to ask some questions... Thanks, jon
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3,116 Posts
Yup, a member here has modified Vickers blocks to work but its not a real simple conversion.
You may want to look to Europe for the feedblock and booster. They are not rare over there but then you may have to pay an importer...etc. They are out there. I happen to have a Russian Feedblock missing both the upper and lower feedblock arms, otherwise complete, that I have been holding hoping to find the parts. I would consider selling it.
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