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hey i'm a new 1919 owner , i.m looking for belts and loader can you help me find these parts on line or were to go. thanks for listoning
 

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hey i'm a new 1919 owner , i.m looking for belts and loader can you help me find these parts on line or were to go. thanks for listoning
Welcome to the forum sailfish.

Best thing to do to find items your looking for is to search the "Buy, Sell & Trade" section of the forum. http://1919a4.com/forumdisplay.php?9-1919a4-Ad-Board
If you don't see anything what you need, you can post a WTB ad, with a description of what you are looking for.

Enjoy the addiction. There is no cure. LOL
 

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I agree totally No D Wells. Sent my kit to him, was lied to continually about when it would be done. 9 months later, he only had the internals milled, I said I had enough and just wanted my kit back, when I finally got it back there was a part missing. I called him and he said he'd send it right out. That was almost a month ago and still no part.
 

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Who the hell is D Wells anyway? Never heard of him. :dunno:
Best if you put it all out in the open and save other members further grief if possible.
CaptMax
 

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He's in Pa - bought a 100% sideplate from him and it was junk - slots were WAY out of spec. Too wide and too deep and I'm not talking about .005"-.010". There were a number of complaints about his plates years ago.
 

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PhD in Over-Engineering
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I talked to Nathan a few weeks ago. Shouldn't be hard to reach him.
 

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:eek:fftopic:

Carry On!
Gary
><>
 

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Thanks for the good info. I was pretty familiar with the M2, but that's been a few years.... Good thread to print and put in your range box with your 1919
 

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I am fairly new to this forum.
I now have a 1919 and would love to educate myself further.
I am so sorry but I can't seem to find those tutorials.
I must missing something.
Could you run me through the sequence on how to find them.
I have looked on the home page with no success.

Thx



It seems like in the last few months we are having many, many new 1919 owners and also seeing more accidents with out-of-chamber ignitions causing injury and/or heavily damaging guns.

Often, with much over-confidence, I hear a new guy say how many 100's of other guns they have and have built and it comes across that a 1919 is just another gun. I know of few other home builds or semi conversions where you have to worry about critical adjustments and parts "everytime" you go to the range. Also, if you build an FNFal it usually will stay in 308 caliber the rest of it's life or if you build a Garand chances are it will be 30-06 for generations to come. With the 1919 so convertible to 3 different calibers it's easy to mismatch critical conversion parts.

The exact causes of explosions cannot always be determined, but for the new guys here's some potentially injury saving and/or life-saving tips. I'll go ahead and apologize now because it may come across as harsh, but you will probably have innocent folks all around you if you blow up a 1919 so it won't be just you that is endangered...sorry. These guns produce approx 60,000 pounds per square inch of pressure...a 308 round has an approximate surface area of 3.92 square inches so multiply those two numbers and you get a total pressure of 235,200 pounds or roughly 117.6 tons of total pressure. These guns are extremely fun, but they are not toys so listen up...please:

1. If you don't understand the feed and function of the 1919, don't know how to properly load belts or links and can't proficiently disassemble and reassemble it before you go to the range the first time then don't go until you can. See the disassembly tutorial on the home page.
2. If you don't know how to recognize a 308 booster VS a 30-06/8mm booster then don't shoot your gun until you can. Don't trust that your brand new factory made gun has the correct booster. Don't trust that your parts set has the correct booster. See the converting tutorial on the home page.
3. If you're not sure what "headspace" is then do not in any way attempt to fire your 1919. The gun does not come already properly headspaced...even if it was test fired...it may not be correct headspacing for your ammo. Do not use a headspace gage, follow Method 2 of the headspacing tutorial on the home page with one exception; with surplus ammo of every caliber varying so much in quality, whether you're shooting 308, 8mm or 30-06, start at zero headspace or with only one click out from bolt lockup...if the gun runs fine leave it alone. If it gets sluggish or the bolt won't quite close when the gun gets hot then go out one click at a time until it runs good, but never more than 3 or 4 clicks out from bolt lockup. If you change ammo mfgr or lot/date number then re-headspace. Don't mix ammo of different lot/date numbers or mfgr on the same belt. Headspacing is only to compensate for heat building up in the gun so it's best to start with a tight headspace...you can always work out from there. See the * section below taken from another thread for more detailed explanation.
4. While shooting, if the gun "misfires" and you have to manually cycle the bolt, check the cartridge that ejects to make sure it isn't separated. If it is separted then use a broken shell extractor or tap to remove the piece remaining in the chamber.
5. While shooting, if the gun "misfires" and you have to manually cycle the bolt, check the cartridge that ejects to make sure it still has a slug in the casing. If you manually eject a casing with no slug then that means the round didn't produce enough gas pressure to automatically cycle the gun and chances are there's a slug wedged in the chamber or barrel. Take one minute and lock the bolt open and run a cleaning rod down the barrel.
6. While shooting and you find that the bolt won't lock up, don't assume it's headspacing. If a round will not seat there's a good chance that the previous round separated and a piece is still in the chamber. If you keep manually cycling the bolt and putting new rounds into the chamber you may eventually smash the brass remnant flat enough to chamber a live round and lock up the bolt...which will have catastriphic results if you pull the trigger. If the bolt will not close and you're sure the headspace is correct then DO NOT KEEP INCREASING HEADSPACE UNTIL IT WILL CLOSE, check the chamber with a broken shell extractor.
7. When you buy a parts set ensure the barrel and booster are for the caliber you asked for.

If you don't understand any of the terms I just used then study the tutorials on the home page and/or ask questions on this website...you won't find any better source for info and help.

When I first started tinkering with these guns I already had over 60 guns in my collection and I found out real quick that this was an animal of a different breed. I had no clue what a booster was, buffer disks, headspacing, breach block cam, accelerator, lockframe, etc. I also found very quickly that there were plenty of patient guys and gals on this website to help me thru every step of building, owning and operating a 1919...take advantage of this and don't assume anything.

Do you know why the FAA does not regulate home-built ultra-lights too heavily...you don't even need a pilots license? It's because they don't have a high and catastrophic crash/injury rate. Let's keep it that way with semi 1919s and stay below the radar screen by minimizing avoidable incidences.

Be safe.
 

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FNG with a TNW seeking tutorials

I hate being the new guy and asking dumb questions... But I can't seem to locate the tutorials mentioned? I'd like to semi educate myself on the 1919 before asking questions. The one tutorial that was present showing the build at least gets me to the point of knowing some part names. Look forward to learning so can get comfortable before shooting this thing. Tutorial location anyone?
 

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There are No Dumb Questions.

Ask Anything.....We'll point you in the right direction.

Which Tutorial are you looking for?

Build ?

I'm guessing you found the rod of death thread?.....if not...Its 1st.


http://1919a4.com/showthread.php?47762-WARNING-TO-ALL-My-drive-rod-spring-accident&highlight=Death

Welcome and we'll gladly get you informed.

Dan in Oregon
Thanks Dan, I very greatly appreciate sharing that link. I had watched field strip videos and heard mentions of be careful with the spring... but just did not realize how careful...thank you very much!! It looks like there is a tool available and a must buy. I am so new I have no idea if is secure...I know I have spun it a few times with my fingers (cringe) and unless faulty looks like you have to push it in before will release?

Brief History:
I picked up a TNW built 1919a4 at an auction this past weekend that came with a myriad of extra parts, included some mount options for the tripod, an extra barrel and about 500 rounds of 30.06 linked. Although it was auctioned as a 30.06 here comes my concern as I don't know the specific history behind this gun.

- on inspcetion:
- the LSP is stamped 7.62

- the bolt is stamped 7.62

- all the ammo that came with it is linked 30-06
- the barrel has the scalloped shape cutouts (which from other posts typically means 30.06 barrel?) the spare barrel also has the scalloped cuts. How to tell the actual caliber of the barrel?
- the booster appears to be 30-06 and is stamped ".718 dia" on the end


So to answer your question tutorials on telling what this is set-up for 30-06 or 7.26/ .308... I fear I have some "frankensteining" going on and want to work my may through it.


Thanks for your response and the great beginner link on the spring that you provided.
 

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Yes the "rod" will spin as the gun sits.

To strip the gun ..the Rod needs to be locked in place.

Your on the right track....

Watch any youtube 1919 related video's and get the process uhh embedded in your brain.

Headspace...sounds complicated...you will understand in time.

You may well have a 30.06 barrel in your gun.

Just a couple easy to swap parts to convert from 30.06 to 308/(7.62x51)...
About $ 150+-..308 bbl, 308 cartridge guides Front & rear,.perhaps a 308 booster if needed.. ahh & links/ammo:rofl:

When your comfortable to "open" it up and get the Guts out..The Barrel will be marked /stamped

7.62 and some jibberish or american part numbers and perhaps a maker..RIA..SG etc.

As you noted.. the bbl notches are a giveaway to what lies beneath.

There is a distant possibility that its converted to 8mm..I doubt that in your case but it is /was a popular option.

Your bolt..stamped 7.62...will likely feed 30.06. There was a small change too the feed lips/(theres a better werd) ..in essence, the 06 bolt was slightly modified by the Izzy boys too feed 7.62x51.

Long story short...the 06 rounds in a 7.62 bolt ..will droop downward more so than if they were in an un modified bolt.

As to the markings on your side plate....means nothing..as far as what your able to feed it.
It basicly means your gun was built on an Izzy Kit.

BMG parts sells the TOOL for installing the ROD..Tool, Main Spring, 1917, 1919.

Now you can safely install and remove your M1917A1,M1919 Recoil Spring, with this new tool. US Manufactured. New Condition.

Most of the way down this page.... http://www.bmgparts.com/30cal.html



POST pics..and you'l get all sorts of help.

Apparently the entire EAST Coast is asleep already.

Cheers

ETA...Your Gun was built in Vernonia ,OR...about 30 minutes from me .. and where I landed in Oregon ..30 some years ago.

Dan
 

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This safety information can't be stressed enough. It should be some kind of requirement for all FNGs to read, read and re-read this information for the safety of all concerned as well as their own.
 

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theduke SEZ: "Yes the "rod" [of death] will spin as the gun sits. To strip the gun ..the Rod needs to be locked in place... When [you're] comfortable to "open" it up and get the Guts out.... BMG parts sells the TOOL for installing the ROD..Tool, Main Spring, 1917, 1919.... Now you can safely install and remove your M1917A1,M1919 Recoil Spring, with this new tool.... http://www.bmgparts.com/30cal.html.... "

Look specifically at this post regarding the "Rod Of Death" posted by My66coupe, http://1919a4.com/showthread.php?47762-WARNING-TO-ALL-My-drive-rod-spring-accident/page2&highlight=danger "My drive rod/spring accident," ("before" and "after" photos. Not for the squeamish.)

There are easier, cheaper, (i.e. free) ways of safely managing the "Rod Of Death," one of which only involves drilling a small hole in a piece of wood (my workbench) to accomplish. Another way involves the use of your bench vise.


Carry On!
Gary
><>
 

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The rowdy RODdy

Thanks all so much for the info... I am sure you saved an appendage, car windshield, garage door, wifes cat by bringing this up first. I have watched 7-8 videos on this now.

The questions I have remaining on The Rod... Before going in
1. You push in and turn a quarter turn clockwise to lock the spring in...can a person turn too far going clockwise and release the rod of death?
2. Is there a stop so you know when have reached a quarter turn?...I.e. Can't turn no more
3. Counterclockwise turn just enough after reassembly to release...turn counterclockwise too much spring of death launches?
 

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PhD in Over-Engineering
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Thanks all so much for the info... I am sure you saved an appendage, car windshield, garage door, wifes cat by bringing this up first. I have watched 7-8 videos on this now.

The questions I have remaining on The Rod... Before going in
1. You push in and turn a quarter turn clockwise to lock the spring in...can a person turn too far going clockwise and release the rod of death?
2. Is there a stop so you know when have reached a quarter turn?...I.e. Can't turn no more
3. Counterclockwise turn just enough after reassembly to release...turn counterclockwise too much spring of death launches?
There is a consistent rule on this. The rod slot is in a fixed position related to the locking pin. The locked position in the bolt will have the slot in the vertical position. Yes, it can be rotated 360 degrees, well past the locking point. Also, there are notches in the bolt that you can feel when the pin seats itself properly. It will be evident with a slight easing of pressure on the rod, so that the cross pin can engage with the rearward facing notches in the bolt cavity. You will quickly develop a feel for that, but always combine that "feel" with the visual reference and you will have no problems.

The rule of thumb I suggest is that you depress the rod- bolt in full retracted position- with the rod slot in the horizontal position. That gives you a reliable visual as well as mechanical reference. Once fully depressed into the bolt cavity, rotate clockwise to the 90 degree point, where the slot is visibly vertical. Anything less... or more (past)... than straight vertical and your rod is not fully secured in the bolt. With practice you will get to know that feel, but the visual will be a great guide while developing that.
 
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