Welcome to the forum sailfish.hey i'm a new 1919 owner , i.m looking for belts and loader can you help me find these parts on line or were to go. thanks for listoning
It seems like in the last few months we are having many, many new 1919 owners and also seeing more accidents with out-of-chamber ignitions causing injury and/or heavily damaging guns.
Often, with much over-confidence, I hear a new guy say how many 100's of other guns they have and have built and it comes across that a 1919 is just another gun. I know of few other home builds or semi conversions where you have to worry about critical adjustments and parts "everytime" you go to the range. Also, if you build an FNFal it usually will stay in 308 caliber the rest of it's life or if you build a Garand chances are it will be 30-06 for generations to come. With the 1919 so convertible to 3 different calibers it's easy to mismatch critical conversion parts.
The exact causes of explosions cannot always be determined, but for the new guys here's some potentially injury saving and/or life-saving tips. I'll go ahead and apologize now because it may come across as harsh, but you will probably have innocent folks all around you if you blow up a 1919 so it won't be just you that is endangered...sorry. These guns produce approx 60,000 pounds per square inch of pressure...a 308 round has an approximate surface area of 3.92 square inches so multiply those two numbers and you get a total pressure of 235,200 pounds or roughly 117.6 tons of total pressure. These guns are extremely fun, but they are not toys so listen up...please:
1. If you don't understand the feed and function of the 1919, don't know how to properly load belts or links and can't proficiently disassemble and reassemble it before you go to the range the first time then don't go until you can. See the disassembly tutorial on the home page.
2. If you don't know how to recognize a 308 booster VS a 30-06/8mm booster then don't shoot your gun until you can. Don't trust that your brand new factory made gun has the correct booster. Don't trust that your parts set has the correct booster. See the converting tutorial on the home page.
3. If you're not sure what "headspace" is then do not in any way attempt to fire your 1919. The gun does not come already properly headspaced...even if it was test fired...it may not be correct headspacing for your ammo. Do not use a headspace gage, follow Method 2 of the headspacing tutorial on the home page with one exception; with surplus ammo of every caliber varying so much in quality, whether you're shooting 308, 8mm or 30-06, start at zero headspace or with only one click out from bolt lockup...if the gun runs fine leave it alone. If it gets sluggish or the bolt won't quite close when the gun gets hot then go out one click at a time until it runs good, but never more than 3 or 4 clicks out from bolt lockup. If you change ammo mfgr or lot/date number then re-headspace. Don't mix ammo of different lot/date numbers or mfgr on the same belt. Headspacing is only to compensate for heat building up in the gun so it's best to start with a tight headspace...you can always work out from there. See the * section below taken from another thread for more detailed explanation.
4. While shooting, if the gun "misfires" and you have to manually cycle the bolt, check the cartridge that ejects to make sure it isn't separated. If it is separted then use a broken shell extractor or tap to remove the piece remaining in the chamber.
5. While shooting, if the gun "misfires" and you have to manually cycle the bolt, check the cartridge that ejects to make sure it still has a slug in the casing. If you manually eject a casing with no slug then that means the round didn't produce enough gas pressure to automatically cycle the gun and chances are there's a slug wedged in the chamber or barrel. Take one minute and lock the bolt open and run a cleaning rod down the barrel.
6. While shooting and you find that the bolt won't lock up, don't assume it's headspacing. If a round will not seat there's a good chance that the previous round separated and a piece is still in the chamber. If you keep manually cycling the bolt and putting new rounds into the chamber you may eventually smash the brass remnant flat enough to chamber a live round and lock up the bolt...which will have catastriphic results if you pull the trigger. If the bolt will not close and you're sure the headspace is correct then DO NOT KEEP INCREASING HEADSPACE UNTIL IT WILL CLOSE, check the chamber with a broken shell extractor.
7. When you buy a parts set ensure the barrel and booster are for the caliber you asked for.
If you don't understand any of the terms I just used then study the tutorials on the home page and/or ask questions on this website...you won't find any better source for info and help.
When I first started tinkering with these guns I already had over 60 guns in my collection and I found out real quick that this was an animal of a different breed. I had no clue what a booster was, buffer disks, headspacing, breach block cam, accelerator, lockframe, etc. I also found very quickly that there were plenty of patient guys and gals on this website to help me thru every step of building, owning and operating a 1919...take advantage of this and don't assume anything.
Do you know why the FAA does not regulate home-built ultra-lights too heavily...you don't even need a pilots license? It's because they don't have a high and catastrophic crash/injury rate. Let's keep it that way with semi 1919s and stay below the radar screen by minimizing avoidable incidences.
Thanks Dan, I very greatly appreciate sharing that link. I had watched field strip videos and heard mentions of be careful with the spring... but just did not realize how careful...thank you very much!! It looks like there is a tool available and a must buy. I am so new I have no idea if is secure...I know I have spun it a few times with my fingers (cringe) and unless faulty looks like you have to push it in before will release?There are No Dumb Questions.
Ask Anything.....We'll point you in the right direction.
Which Tutorial are you looking for?
I'm guessing you found the rod of death thread?.....if not...Its 1st.
Welcome and we'll gladly get you informed.
Dan in Oregon
There is a consistent rule on this. The rod slot is in a fixed position related to the locking pin. The locked position in the bolt will have the slot in the vertical position. Yes, it can be rotated 360 degrees, well past the locking point. Also, there are notches in the bolt that you can feel when the pin seats itself properly. It will be evident with a slight easing of pressure on the rod, so that the cross pin can engage with the rearward facing notches in the bolt cavity. You will quickly develop a feel for that, but always combine that "feel" with the visual reference and you will have no problems.Thanks all so much for the info... I am sure you saved an appendage, car windshield, garage door, wifes cat by bringing this up first. I have watched 7-8 videos on this now.
The questions I have remaining on The Rod... Before going in
1. You push in and turn a quarter turn clockwise to lock the spring in...can a person turn too far going clockwise and release the rod of death?
2. Is there a stop so you know when have reached a quarter turn?...I.e. Can't turn no more
3. Counterclockwise turn just enough after reassembly to release...turn counterclockwise too much spring of death launches?