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You know enough NOT to lock that screw down tight, right?:rolleyes:
 

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Mine came from TNW with a 5/16-24 socket head cap screw. :eek:
The one I'm building will probably have the same....

Regards,
Tom
 

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screws

you guys are killing me !!! it is absolutly essential that you use the original screw !!!!!--------otherwise i can't have a gallon of gas !!! hell it won't even pay for that !!! LOL yea a socket will work, but it ain't as pretty- nah !! tomt:D
 

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you guys are killing me !!! it is absolutly essential that you use the original screw !!!!!--------otherwise i can't have a gallon of gas !!! hell it won't even pay for that !!! LOL yea a socket will work, but it ain't as pretty- nah !! tomt:D
hey i ordered one from you...BTW just a idea the papers you shiped with my plate and trigger ya might wanta redo them kinda hard to read been copyed tomaney times

ray
 

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Leave It Loose

I am not sure about this....... but I beleive you "snug" it then back it out 1/4 turn, then stake it. That part needs to be able to float.
Definately wait for someone to tell you the correct method. IT IS NOT SAPOSED TO BE TIGHT.
 

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This topic has been discussed in several maintenance bulletins and technical manuals such as TM 9-1005-212-25, page 17, "Screw..must be drawn up tight, backed off 1/6 to 1/4 turn, and stacked in two places on breech lock cam.." or TM 9-1005-212-35 page 66 "Float slightly except on guns of Saginaw Mfg, to float, loosen screw 5020527 1/6 to 1/4 turn, and stake on inside of casing group in two places adjacent to clearances which are provided in breech lock cam."
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Just to clarify, the reason I need a new screw is mine has been staked 12-15 times, on both the top and underside. It is literally unuseable, almost no screw slot left, and I will have to remove it to remove the breech cam block so I can demill the rivets on the right side plate.
 
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