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I am trying to switch my stock booster for a flash hider. What tool do I need and where can I get one
What tool do I need?
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There is a surplus socket available from some of the vendors, like Numrich. Many just use a strap wrench. Make sure you un stake the lock ring before you try to turn it. Some come off easy, some do not.
They don't illustrate it, but this should be the correct tool. http://www.e-gunparts.com/product.asp?chrProductSKU=30290&MC=
They don't illustrate it, but this should be the correct tool. http://www.e-gunparts.com/product.asp?chrProductSKU=30290&MC=
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Hey thanks for the link! What do you mean stake the lock ring? I'm still new to these guns so I don't know much about them.
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Yes, the lock ring between the booster and jacket may be staked into a square notch in the jacket. Make sure you bend it back out of that notch first. It may also be staked in a round notch on the booster, but you usually don't need to bother with that until after the booster is removed. If reusing this lock ring, you may have to free it up at that spot too. If you need a new ring, contact Dan @ Angola Armory, here on the board. Good Luck!
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Ring a ding ding
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Between the booster (or front barrel bearing if it's a two piecer like this one )and the barrel casing (jacket) there is a light tubing ring and the booster (or bearing ) has a small notch in it that the ring is staked into to keep it from unscrewing. The two piece type has a seperate booster cap with it's own locking ring also staked. The locking rings are different the booster cap one is smaller and much more difficult to find. My M6 flashider is not peened, a little locktite on the threads will do the trick. The rings are properly oriented on the booster the little slit portion in the ring is what is supposed to be staked with a small punch into the recess on the bearing/booster/cap. At least thats how I understand it. Each ring should be good for at least two stakings by reversing the ring. The socket wrench for removing the booster cap or the entire booster bearing has flats for a wrench and a hole for a rod the odd shape I think is supposed to fit in a odd shaped opening on the M6 combination wrench, but mine dosen't, so maybe not.
Between the booster (or front barrel bearing if it's a two piecer like this one )and the barrel casing (jacket) there is a light tubing ring and the booster (or bearing ) has a small notch in it that the ring is staked into to keep it from unscrewing. The two piece type has a seperate booster cap with it's own locking ring also staked. The locking rings are different the booster cap one is smaller and much more difficult to find. My M6 flashider is not peened, a little locktite on the threads will do the trick. The rings are properly oriented on the booster the little slit portion in the ring is what is supposed to be staked with a small punch into the recess on the bearing/booster/cap. At least thats how I understand it. Each ring should be good for at least two stakings by reversing the ring. The socket wrench for removing the booster cap or the entire booster bearing has flats for a wrench and a hole for a rod the odd shape I think is supposed to fit in a odd shaped opening on the M6 combination wrench, but mine dosen't, so maybe not.
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Wouldn't you know it! I got out bid on the flash hider that I had planned on putting on
http://www.gunbroker.com/auction/ViewItem.asp?Item=106326557
http://www.gunbroker.com/auction/ViewItem.asp?Item=106326557
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Numrich (e-gunparts) had'em NOS in the original packaging, mine was from the early '50's mfg by Birtman Electric Co. Rockford, IL
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