I if anyone is willing to share id like to know whats there go too weapons grease/oil
What is a good weapon oil/grease
chillimacmre#23
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thank you im going to pick some up tomorrow
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A quart will last you years. The grease tin will last you years.
For wipe down you can mix the Mobil 1 with denatured alcohol at a 50/50 ratio, put it in a commercial spray bottle (get at big box stores) shake it up, spray on and wipe down. The denatured alcohol will thin the Mobil 1 so you can spray it, and will evaporate off just leaving the oil. I have learned to not mix too much at a time and let it stand. The denatured alcohol will evaporate off despite being in the spray bottle leaving just the oil which will clog the spray pump mechanism and the nozzle.
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Wasnt there a ‘scandal’ a few years ago with a bunch of lubes and cleaners using canola oil? Frog lube?
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wouldn’t canola oil be obviously odd?
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It wasn’t frog lube- it was FireClean. They were all the rage a few years ago.
There would never have been a scandal if Bill had not told Monica to slather it on the cigar.
A frog was the only animal not involved.
M
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The only time I use WD 40 on guns in during extended shooting session when things start to gum up, but as soon as I get home they get a good scrubbing as for regular lube after cleaning clp for handguns white lith for the garand and carbines, if it isn't above 50 degrees I don't go shooting so I have never noticed the white lith getting sticky.
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I ran frog lube while I was a m240 gunner. Even wored with banks and no descriminator. Kept the gun slick for days. Down side is the minty smell. When everyone in the feel smeel like ass and Copenhagen straight cut the minty smell really sticks out.
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OOHHHH thats a solid idea. Gunna try that at the next 240/249 range.
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have put 10w40 in a M2A1 in afghanistan in a pinch worked very well. smoked like a jetta with a blown head gasket but she got ran hard that day.
Well I was hawking this thread because I thought it would turn into a ford vs chevy argument, if you use either….ouch 
, but I will add some thoughts having worked on several hard use ranges and now a lab where we burn guns into the ground for testing. You can go back and forth all day to which lube will last longer in which condition, but with that said:
My experience, I was always an advocate for heavy motor oils and even remember when Royal Purple turned out a gun product that had a tackier film to it to stick around a tiny bit more. I only got off of them because with a hot patrol car in Florida, my rifle would drip oil away. I switched to and have been hard user of Froglube since it came out but will run it for the first time in my browning on xmas day. I converted to the paste back in my patrol days, because it would sit in the spot i put it and last in the heat without dripping. It gets deep in metal. I can wipe the bolt dry, but if i shoot it hot, you'll see the bolt is wet again because it seeping out from the metal. At the time it came out, I was a police officer and a few local agencies tested it real hard. The only guys who had a bad word against it didn’t apply it right and usually hose rem oil on it before a qual which caused it to gel (which is against included instructions). I also enjoy that cleaning is a simple wipe down because it sits deeper in the metal preventing carbon build up. Today, I find myself in training courses with my teams as the last man standing during heavy shooting days while everyone else is on dry guns from their CLP, rem oils, etc burning out.
With allllll of that being said, some guns just hate certain things. We don’t even have a one answer for all in my group. We have some heavy platforms that run best with white lithium and some that we just keep motor oil for. Operating conditions can flip those results. A casual shooter may never see a difference as long as it’s a decent lubricant applied with a proper interval.
Food for thought, always willing to learn and get some conversations going.
, but I will add some thoughts having worked on several hard use ranges and now a lab where we burn guns into the ground for testing. You can go back and forth all day to which lube will last longer in which condition, but with that said:- Keep it lubricated. Your product means nothing if it’s not there. Best results in high heat and lots of movement, something that won’t burn off easily. In hard use, avoid CLP products since you can’t do three things equally. Get a real lubricant.
- Remember to periodically wipe out your nasty, carbon-filled oil sludge, or the gun won’t run. Too many users of all skill levels we see keep adding, keep adding, keep adding, keep adding, and can’t figure out why the gun wont work. They hit a jam, re-lube. It’s like a default training scar. Wipe that thing out, reapply.
- When using grease products, just be sure they don’t firm up in high heat. I had a repair order recently and the user had a young life in the oil fields and loved a certain grease from his heavy machinery. He brought it around his M2HBs and had no more smooth-running guns. I put it under testing and found it firmed up and got tacky under stress and heat to avoid melting off. Great grease, but not for guns.
My experience, I was always an advocate for heavy motor oils and even remember when Royal Purple turned out a gun product that had a tackier film to it to stick around a tiny bit more. I only got off of them because with a hot patrol car in Florida, my rifle would drip oil away. I switched to and have been hard user of Froglube since it came out but will run it for the first time in my browning on xmas day. I converted to the paste back in my patrol days, because it would sit in the spot i put it and last in the heat without dripping. It gets deep in metal. I can wipe the bolt dry, but if i shoot it hot, you'll see the bolt is wet again because it seeping out from the metal. At the time it came out, I was a police officer and a few local agencies tested it real hard. The only guys who had a bad word against it didn’t apply it right and usually hose rem oil on it before a qual which caused it to gel (which is against included instructions). I also enjoy that cleaning is a simple wipe down because it sits deeper in the metal preventing carbon build up. Today, I find myself in training courses with my teams as the last man standing during heavy shooting days while everyone else is on dry guns from their CLP, rem oils, etc burning out.
With allllll of that being said, some guns just hate certain things. We don’t even have a one answer for all in my group. We have some heavy platforms that run best with white lithium and some that we just keep motor oil for. Operating conditions can flip those results. A casual shooter may never see a difference as long as it’s a decent lubricant applied with a proper interval.
Food for thought, always willing to learn and get some conversations going.
I've used slip 2000 for years at work and like it because it doesn't gunk up, instead of wd 40, I use diesel, ive also had good luck with various motor oils, way oils. Synthetic grease when I have something that needs grease
I agree with the statements here that endorse quality industrial lubes
I agree with the statements here that endorse quality industrial lubes
I had a bad experience with white lithium grease. Don't remember the brand, because I threw it away afterward. It came in a big cup-sized tub from NAPA or one of the other auto parts store chains.
I applied it to the bright sear, trigger and hammer parts of a venerable model SIG P210. The gun was thereafter put away in the safe. A few weeks or months later (again, I don't recall) I discovered that the grease had hardened and when I wiped it off, found that the bright parts were discolored, like silver tarnish, under where the grease had touched it. Gently brushing the parts down with a fine stainless toothbrush did not remove it. Boy, was I pissed. It took a lot of delicate and judicious polishing --which one does not undertake casually on a $3K SIG 210--to get rid of that "tarnish". I still don't know it if it was due to that grease, or the peculiar metallurgy of those parts (which were the only ones not blued), or the combination of both. It did not affect the blue. But that's the end of lithium grease for me--not even on M1 op rods any more.
M
Yes, I know this music well, and can play it by heart on the piano. It has been repeated for so long and so many times on the internet that it's practically religious dogma. But insofar as it applies to firearms under normal, everyday conditions, I have yet to see any scientific proof that they are "not interchangeable on most firearms". What happens to a lubricant if it's on a machine gun fired until the barrel glows cherry-red has no real application to ordinary use.
M
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