[hotchkissmtrifle]

Has anybody ever got one of these that just refused to budge? I just about drilled it but thought I would come in here and see if anybody had any ideas first. I shimmed it up nice and square in the big Dake 80 ton press and used a pin the right size, put A LOT of pressure on it. I put enough I went and got a piece of 3/4 inch plywood to hide behind incase something broke. Need help from someone please. Hotch

 

[hotchkissmtrifle]

A little heat does wonders.....and you are pushing it from left to right.....
correct?
TiredIron

The tuturial over on the AK site said "all pins are driven in from the right side" but then they show what appears to be a Rommy in the picture with the trunion writing down on the press, to me they are pressing on the right side and that contradics the text???? I printed off the pic from the site and laid it on the press and put my trunion in the same position as they did and nothing. I may put a little heat on it, the nutcase that beat this thing with a sledge hammer broke the side of the trunion so I got to make a jig and weld it up. Thanks, Hotch

 

[hotchkissmtrifle]

Thanks Guys, I going back in for round 2, yes, I wore safety glases and a faceshield plus cowered behind the plywood. Was pressing the piston out of a one lung engine one time and it turned into a grenade, been kind spooked about these things ever since, I will get at it, Hotch

 

[hotchkissmtrifle]

Well, not doing very good, heated it up and that revealed the sight base is cracked on both sides, this was the one I spoke of earlier that had the bent barrel and I am making a Krink style pistol so I geuss I can fix and disguise it. Still have not got it out, I think I will die grind the end off flush next and probably make a special fixture to hold it and press. I got an indexing deal set up in the mill so I will not get it done tonight. I really can't believe it will not budge but then again, I think that pic on the AK site lead me astray. nOh, Achmech, I don't think your pics loaded. Will keep you posted, Hotch

 

[hotchkissmtrifle]

What kind of "One Lunger"...?? I'm just now putting a Fairbanks 3hp "Z" back together that I disassembled about 20yrs ago. I don't like to rush projects.....
you know? Man....bent barrel...cracked trunion....thats indeed a project.
Good Luck
TiredIron

Z Hugh? I got a really poor Z, got most of the Maytags, got half a dozen E JDs, Cushman with out the banjo, several Internationals and some others but the really weird one is a German 2 cylinder that has one spark plug and a slide linkage that makes it work, Never seen another, a farmer had it on a seperator. It don't really run but if you belt it up to another engine it will hit once in a while Don't have much time for the engines, looking for a small oilfield one to run the line drive in the blacksmith shop and then will probably save these others for retirement projects. I am trying to get things for them to run now, cement mixer, seperators, grain grinders, the like, hate to run an engine that aint belted up The one that broke was a JD 1 1/2 horse. I found a bare block in Victor Colo for $150 so problem solved I am going to go back and look at that AK again, its driving me nuts! Hotch

 

[hotchkissmtrifle]

I am going to make a jig like that, the press is so big I can't do much good smacking it. I would have to get a ladder to just reach it. Thanks for the pics and advice everyone, I am off to make the jig! Hotch

 

[hotchkissmtrifle]

If you have a DRO I could send you the coordinates for the jig. I made it to take the barrel/trunnion at an angle to maximize the contact area around the pin. Dimples are made with 5/16" ball nose (.17" deep) and through hole is 3/8". the trunnion support is .128" above surface of jig. The jig centers the barrel pin over the hole using the rivet heads.

Thanks but I am not that high tech, I am using your figures on this though, thank you!

 

[hotchkissmtrifle]

I took a bearing out of the cage to use for a punch, heard a crack,saw a spark and everything flew, discovered I had split the Timken Needle bearing down the middle?????? Its a real fine gray color under the shiney part, man, I didn't think this was possible I am going to bed, this is going to drive me to drinking if I keep going tonight, thanks guys, Hotch

 

[hotchkissmtrifle]

Thanks everyone, I will try again tonight, I tried pushing it both ways, I was hanging all my body weight on the handle of the 80 ton press when the bearing broke, (needed new shorts) I will try hitting it again then probably just drill it before I screw the trunion up more than it is. THanks, Hotch

 

[hotchkissmtrifle]

OK, I just got it out, I thought I could drill a small hole and relieve it enough to press, WRONG! After a couple more holes I put it in a mill and kept chewing at it until it was almost all the way cut out then it finally did push out. As you can see the trunion is really screwed up, I think I will mill out an insert and clamp it, then Heliarc it. If anyone has an extra along with a site base reasonably priced, I might be interested. Before this gun was drestroyed it was built by Interordnance, yea I know, its amazing anyone every got one they ordered, and instead of using revits on the trunion they welded it, is that normal? I had never seen one. Its a pain in the you know what to get out! Thanks for all your help and please forgive the cobled up farmer rigged jig for pressing the pins, it was a quicky. Hotch

 

[hotchkissmtrifle]

Who sells the cheapest trunions? In my defense, it was already broke, my friend's old lady took a hammer to several of his guns and I am just doing a rebuild. For headspacing does anyone have any gauges for sale or are most people gauging off a chambered round?I guess you lap the lugs to tighten it up? Thanks, Hotch

 

[hotchkissmtrifle]

Don't know where to get a trunnion, but for headspacing, I've done what I was told by someone else. I use 6-8 rnds (to get an average feel, they won't all be the same), putting a piece of tape of a known thickness over the primer end. On a new gun, I make sure that when the cartridge with no tape is in the bolt, it will easily go into the trunnion and lock, maybe with a little snugness as it it halfway in lockup. Then I make sure that with a piece of tape over the primer of say .001 thickness, it feels slightly snug at the begining of locking up, two pieces of tape and it will feel snug at the start, and with 3, it will be tight but will lock up. It will wear and the bolt can be lapped. Keep in mind you do this with the bolt removed from the carrier and with your fingers. Do this at your own risk, of course the best thing to do is use headspace guages, never heard of anyone having a problem doing it this way though.

Yea, I think I know who told you that and I appreciate both of you I guess its good and will use it, if it was a bullpup I would be more nervouse. I can't find any trunion for less than I gave for he kit so I guess I am back to welding it up. Thanks, Hotch

 

[hotchkissmtrifle]

Hotch,
Almost all guages you can buy are usless. I've built many AKs that had never been fired. Non would close on a go-guage but would close on a live round. Most guages are SAMII spec and are wrong for AKs. If you can lay your hands on some euro guages fine - otherwise the tape method has been used for thousands of builds. If you want to borrow a set of SAMII guages PM me.

Thank you for the offer but I think I will try the tapearoo route since everyone else is. Thanks, Hotch