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Remember too that ATF's bump stock rule clearly stated that bump firing is perfectly legal. They merely banned the bump stock products, and that is now in the dustbin of history thanks to Cargill.
 
I had created a very simple and efficient system for use on an MG3 Ground tripod years ago when the AW-Sim and Aikins Accelerator were popular and legal, but that too required the use a spring assist - the ones already on the MG3 Tripod. Once they ruled against using springs the whole system got canned, but it was fun for a brief period of time. Probably still a video or two floating around of it.
 
I was thinking specifically of the AW-Sim in my earlier post, but had forgotten its name and how it actually worked.

Yes but you're physically holding down the new trigger one time.
I have to agree. IMO, this would be analogous to attaching a drill to a crank...the crank is actuating the gun's trigger one at a time, but pushing the button to facilitate those multiple trigger actuations is a single action of the "2nd trigger"...which is why attaching a drill (or other power tool) to a crank is verboten.
 
It was discussed to death in the bump stock and FRT court discussions.

I am not a lawyer but let me give my understanding of what I read.

Even if the shooter is making a single movement, like holding the finger in one place, as long as the gun is functioning as a semi auto, with one function of the trigger occurring per shot, it is not a machinegun.
 
I was thinking specifically of the AW-Sim in my earlier post, but had forgotten its name and how it actually worked.



I have to agree. IMO, this would be analogous to attaching a drill to a crank...the crank is actuating the gun's trigger one at a time, but pushing the button to facilitate those multiple trigger actuations is a single action of the "2nd trigger"...which is why attaching a drill (or other power tool) to a crank is verboten.
Aw Rats there goes my weed eater pull start idea :ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO: !
 
A simple FRT is possible on the 1919, make a cut in the rear plate, a cut in the handle, weld a angled piece of steel to the rear of the bolt and a angled piece of steel atop the trigger.
My math may be a little off, but I dont think there's enough force in the impact to break a finger.
 
Discussion starter · #57 ·
No permanent mods in any way. The only part from the TNW M230 kit is the lower grip frame / trigger group. The M240B 50rd nutsack bracket was custom made by fellow member joshs1ofakindxj

Below is a link to a post with more details of the setups, pics, and a couple videos of them running...if you can find a M230 kit (not easy or cheap these days), I'll be happy to help with the rest of the configuration, if you're interested in building one.

Open Bolt pM240Bmg outing
For whatever reason I stopped getting notifications for this thread and had no idea you responded. I appreciate it. No permanent mods is good. How does the trigger work in that system? Is it an AR15 FGC or something else?
 
For whatever reason I stopped getting notifications for this thread and had no idea you responded. I appreciate it. No permanent mods is good. How does the trigger work in that system? Is it an AR15 FGC or something else?
Both those guns are transferable full autos. The M230 trigger works by actuating the standard 1919 trigger via a "paddle" in the trigger group that rises up to actuate the 1919's native trigger.

Hope that helps, let me know if you have any other questions.
 
FRTs for AKs are now available and shipping.


Yesterday I saw a Glock pistol FRT has been developed. You can find the file online and 3D print it or machine it.

I saw another company out of Arizona is now selling AR FRTs that they claim work with any caliber, as it is drop in and doesn't replace the existing FCG.

It seems the genie is out of the bottle.

I keep thinking about a 1919 FRT.

I am pondering something as simple as a raised contact surface on top of the semi trigger near the back plate, which when contacted by the bottom of the bolt at full recoil would force the trigger to reset. This would push the trigger, and your finger down, into the reset position. If your finger pressure and timing are right, you should be raising the trigger back up to fire which could cause the gun to fire again once the bolt has returned to battery and the disconnector has engaged the sear. Rapidly firing in semi auto, with the bolt forcing your finger to reset. Maybe that alone could work.

I think the missing piece is something that doesn't let you pull the trigger again until the bolt is all the way forward in battery. Maybe a toggle device.

Bolt comes back, engages the toggle device, which pushes the trigger to reset. Bolt goes forward and then a link piece pulls the toggle back forward, allowing you to press the trigger again.

Actually, I think this is exactly how the AK FRT works based on what I've seen. It has a link that runs under the bolt and is pulling on the FRT mechanism when the bolt is in battery.

Instead of working off the bolt, I wonder if this link could work off of the accelerator.

Image
 
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